What are the best places to visit in Albania? We asked my friend and frequent traveler, Jennifer Paquette, who spent quite a bit of time there. She shares her experience below.
The best places to visit in Albania surprised us. Our trip to Albania was an afterthought. Not on the radar. Why go somewhere the NYTimes hasn’t splashed on the front page of their travel section?
Well…that’s exactly why we decided to go to Albania.
Initially, we wanted to fly to Croatia and travel down the coast, cross into Montenegro, and fly out of Tirana, Albania’s capital. However, the logistics of crossing these borders in a car, bus, train, or flight proved our precious eight days impossible.
Plan B: stay in one country and pick the place the NYTimes hasn’t written about yet! So we chose Albania. And did not regret it.
Nestled between Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, and northern Greece, the sparkling turquoise Albanian coast greeted us as we flew south and then east over the mountains into Tirana.
Tirana International Airport Nënë Tereza (named after the most famous Albanian, Mother Teresa), we deemed “just right”, not too big, not too small.
Upon arrival, we scanned our passports and walked left to withdraw the local currency, Albanian LEK. Although credit cards are accepted in some hotels, restaurants, and tourist attractions, cash is king and preferred.
The fees to withdraw LEK are higher than normal ($5 – $7 per transaction), so try to figure out how much you will need before withdrawing.
Exit the airport, and the buses to the city are to the left, in slots 8 and 9. 400LEK (approx 4.40 USD), and they accepted our credit card. It’s a 30-minute ride to Skanderbeg Square, the heart of Tirana.
Honestly, we didn’t know what to expect. All we knew was that the country was released from the steel grips of Communism in 1991, and although trying very hard, was having a slow time pulling itself together.
Exploring the capital city of Tirana
After a day and a half exploring Tirana, I would sum it up as this: a beautiful, clean city cradled between mountains, with a river flowing through, bustling streets of cafes and shops and remnants of the Cold War interspersed throughout.
Little did we know this was one of the most interesting places to visit in Albania. It’s a multi-layered coming-of-age city, trying its best to get the attention of the rest of the world, while still fresh from its newfound freedom.
Our first stop was the fabulous, yet controversial, Tirana Pyramid, designed by the daughter of Enver Hoxha, the former Communist leader of Albania and definitely one of the coolest places to visit in Albania.
Climb to the top for sweeping views that include mountains, the largest mosque in Europe, and the colorful cosmopolitan buildings that Mayor Edi Rama painted to wash away the gray utilitarian buildings of the past.
Other highlights included Bunk’Art 2, a fascinating museum documenting Albania’s history, built in the actual nuclear bomb shelter of Enver Hoxer. Namazgah Mosque, the largest in Europe, sits on George W Bush Street (the first president to visit Albania).
Five times a day, you will hear the call to prayer brayed over the city streets as you roam the shops of Tirana Castle, examine the figs of the Pazari Ri Bazaar, or find respite in the Grand Park of Tirana. Its haunting chant mesmerizes you.
Drive along the Albanian Riviera
After our acclimation in Tirana, the real adventure began – we rented a car and drove along the Albanian Riviera coast, which turned out to be one of the most beautiful places to visit in Albania.
Then we headed north to the Ottoman-influenced mountain towns. After witnessing the chaotic and aggressive driving in the capital, I was looking forward to our journey outside the busy city.
We spent our first night in Vlore, a coastal town known as the birthplace of Albania’s independence and one of the most historic places to visit in Albania.
Just north of Vlore, we stopped at St. Mary’s Monastery located on Zvërnec Island, a peaceful and meditative oasis accessed only by a long wooden walkway over the Narta Lagoon.
It was the perfect stop after the two-hour drive from Tirana and one of the best places to visit in Albania.
The Llogora Pass
But our coastal drive truly began as we navigated our way to the mountain switchbacks that led to Llogora Pass, the breathtaking and dramatic entryway to the Albanian Riviera.
Llogora Pass is also known as the Pass of Caesar (supposedly Julius Caesar passed through during his campaigns). The drive offered sweeping panoramic views of the Ionian Sea and breathtaking vistas.
All eyes on the road when driving in Albania! During our eight days driving over 450 miles, we encountered one traffic light and no stop signs.
Navigating the main roads is easy as roads are well marked: “A” roads are highways, “SH” with one number are semi main roads, and “SH” with two numbers are one lane roads, where you may be behind a lumbering tractor or lost tourist.
On our journey south, there were no gas stations between Vlore and Himare, so make sure you have a full tank.
Our travels took us through one-lane towns snugged tight into mountain curves – blink, and you’re through – and then suddenly the roads open up, and you are stopping at a vista point to look at Corfu, Greece’s northernmost island across the bay.
The coastal town of Ksamil
The very tip of Albania was our next stop, the sweet coastal town of Ksamil, smaller than its sister resort of Sarandë, 10 miles north. Ksamil is only 14 miles from the Greek border.
Hotels, cafes, homes, from shacks to villas, are all jumbled together and connected by roads of varying driveability.
Charming mixed pebbled beaches hug the coastline, with a sea radiating bright turquoise to deep cobalt, sparkling in the southern sun.
The famous Hand of Ksamil is a must photo-opportunity. It is a giant structure of a hand that appears to be cradling the sea and islands, symbolizing welcome.
Photo Op at the Hand of Ksamil
Sitting on our balcony one night, having a homemade apéritif, I heard clanging. My husband thought the toilet was acting up, but when I turned around, I saw a farmer herding his sheep up the mountain. This is one of those travel moments one lives for.
The fascinating ruins of Butrint
A mere two and a half miles south of Ksamil is Butrint, a UNESCO site and one of the most important archaeological sites in Albania.
To avoid the tour bus influx between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., we visited in the mid-afternoon and enjoyed a peaceful walk through the shaded ruins as the sun set over the Vivanai Channel and Butrint Lake.
After two relaxing days, we ventured in the car again. Our destination was Gjirokaster, also known as the “Stone City”, a UNESCO site infused with Ottoman-era architecture perched on a hilltop overlooking the Drino Valley and surrounded by mountains.
The stone city of Gjirokaster, its Blue Eye, and the imposing castle
Note: on the way to Gjirokaster is one of Albania’s biggest tourist attractions, the Blue Eye, a brilliant blue freshwater pool that gives the appearance of a human eye. We did not stop there, as I had heard about its newfound popularity and prefer to seek out hidden gems!)
Gjirokaster, we found out too late, has not been updated by Google Maps in over nine years! So, make sure to get specific directions from your host – roads are not always marked, and you will all of a sudden find yourself in someone’s driveway or about to go off a cliff.
Regardless, once you have arrived, it is worth it. As you make your way through the cobble-stoned streets to the town’s epicenter, the Old Bazaar, the Girjokaster Castle dominates the skyline above you.
Go slow, explore the magic of the side streets and sweeping views, the traditional Ottoman Skenduli and Zekate homes, and the Meme Bey mosque.
You can’t get lost, as you always have the Castle as your focal point. The hills are steep, and your calves may be screaming at the end of the day, but the treasures, the views and the history that will surprise you at every turn are well worth it.
Berat, City of A Thousand Windows and Berat Castle
The next day, we continued north, then east, then south again to the more well-known and larger Ottoman city of Berat, another UNESCO site. Berat is also known as the “City of A Thousand Windows”.
The River Ossum divides the two main neighborhoods, Gorica and Mangalem. The Gorica bridge, one of the most beautiful Ottoman bridges, connects the two.
The main attraction is Berat Castle, a 13th-century fortress built on a rocky hill overlooking the town and another of the historical places to visit in Albania.
It features many Byzantine and Ottoman-era sites such as the Red Mosque, the White Mosque, churches, ruins, and sweeping views. It took us about 20 minutes to walk up the steep cobble stoned one lane road, but you can also drive.
We did our return trip down a shaded dirt path that switchbacked its way to the bottom, where we crossed over the Gorica bridge and walked the promenade of the quieter Gorica neighborhood, with the “thousand eyes” (windows) of the Mangalem quarter staring back at us from across the river.
We took our xhiro (night stroll) along the Boulevard Republik, stopping at the church of St. Demetrius, then at a café for a raki, Albania’s 40 % proof answer to Fireball.
We made sure to climb the streets to our room in time for dusk, when all at once the lights of Berat illuminated the bridges, homes and streets in a magical glow.
The mountain towns were a completely different experience from the coastal towns, and also from the capital city of Tirana. However, all are rich in authentic culture and steeped in history, much like a living and breathing museum that constantly envelops you in its embrace.
Once back at the airport for our departure, we realized we had too much LEK that could not be used anywhere else, so we went to the Ilaria 98 money exchange desk for Euros or US dollars.
Priority Pass members will love the Scandebeg Lounge (near Gate 3) for a lavish and extensive buffet that will inevitably include some Albanian delicacy you have not tried yet. Their wine, beer and spirits are self-serve, so beware and behave!
Rough around the edges, trying its best, Albania captured my heart in her clutches from the start. The people could not have been more welcoming, hardworking, and helpful.
The diversity of the landscape constantly kept my attention, and there was always something to surprise and delight – a cow wandering a mountain road, an elderly couple on the highway selling fruit, a herd of sheep strolling around ruins, a sunset that makes you gasp.
As our jet cleared the mountains and headed across the Ionian Sea, I vowed to be back. There was so much more to explore, and I wanted to do it all.
Two weeks after we returned, the NY Times had Albania on the cover of its travel section!
How to Get to Albania
To get to Albania, most international travelers fly into Tirana International Airport Nënë Tereza (TIA), which connects to major European cities. Airlines flying to Tirana include Lufthansa and Ryanair, among others.
For more leisurely and scenic routes, you can take a ferry from Italy (Bari to Durrës) or Greece (Corfu to Saranda), or travel by bus/car from neighboring Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, or Greece.
Ways to Get to Albania
By plane
Tirana (TIA) is the primary entry point. It is highly recommended to book flights 45–60 days in advance for better prices. The airport is relatively hassle-free and easy to navigate.
British Airways is another option.
By ferry
Here is a real treat. Take the ferry from Italy or Greece for a scenic voyage. Several routes operate from Italy (Bari, Brindisi) to Durrës, taking approximately 9 hours.
Via Corfu, Greece
Here is a true hidden gem. Visit the Albanian Riviera by flying into Corfu, Greece, and taking a short, scenic ferry ride to Saranda, Albania. The trip is a quick 30 minutes.
Fun Fact: There is an hour difference between Corfu and Albania.
By bus
There are frequent bus services connecting Tirana to neighboring countries, including Athens (Greece), Sofia (Bulgaria), and Pristina (Kosovo).
The roads connecting neighboring cities are well-maintained, making for a comfortable and easy trip, but make sure to research connections thoroughly to make sure you get the best connection.
Best places to stay in Albania
Albania has many accommodation options in all price ranges. From budget hostels to high-end hotels.
The Best Times to Visit Albania
The best time to visit Albania is during the spring, from April to June and the fall from September to October. These are the best times to avoid the very hot summer season and the tourist crowds.
The best month for enjoying the beach is September, as there are fewer tourists, and it is still warm enough to swim in Albania’s spectacular Riviera.
The fall is also an ideal time for hiking and sightseeing.
What is the Typical Food of Albania?
For a relatively small country, Albania punches way above its weight when it comes to its traditional cuisine. One of the features that makes Albania such a foodie paradise is its location as a geographic crossroad of cultures.
Albania has been blessed by its proximity to some of the world’s richest culinary destinations; Italy, Greece, the Balkans, Turkey and beyond. The fusion of these countries’ cuisine couples with Albania’s own creations make for a delightful culinary experience.
Albanian dishes focus on heavy use of olive oil, lots of dairy like yogurt and cheeses, lamb, seafood and a wide variety of vegetables. Some can’t miss traditional Albanian dishes include:
Tavë Kosi: Probably as close to the Albanian national dish as you can get. It consists of a lamb casserole with yogurt and egg. It is originally from the city of Elbasan, south of Tirana and has a creamy, rich texture.
Byrek (or Burek): This is Albania’s ubiquitous street food. It is basically a flaky pastry stuffed with any number of fillings like minced meat, veggies, eggs, cheese, or pretty much anything you want.
Fërgesë: A common Tirana dish. It combines various types of cheeses and veggies served in a clay pot, often accompanied by bread.
Photo by Igor Sporynin
Day Trips (and more) from Albania
There are enough beautiful places to see in Albania to keep you there happily for a lifetime. But there are plenty of side trips for a day or more within close proximity. Guided tours from Albania to neighboring countries are common and well worth it.
Montenegro
Montenegro borders Albania to the north. The distance between the two capital cities of Kotor, Montenegro and Tirana, Albania is about 4 hours.
Montenegro is worth a visit for its beautifully preserved medieval towns, striking landscapes, national parks and the Bay of Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Kosovo
Kosovo and Albania share a border, but the distance between the two capitals is about 3 hours. Kosovo has dramatic monasteries, great hiking and fascinating history as Europe’s youngest nation, as it formally declared independence in 2008.
Greece (Corfu)
As mentioned before, Corfu is less than an hour from the Albanian Riviera by ferry. The island has pristine beaches.
Unlike other Greek islands, Corfu has lush, green vegetation. Corfu’s Old Town is so well-preserved that it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It has a lively nightlife and delicious cuisine.
Want to know more about the many things to do in Albania? Check out these reference books.
What are your thoughts on the most interesting and beautiful places to visit in Albania? Let us know in the comments.
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