Walking the Camino de Santiago is something I’ve always wanted to do. I finally had the time and decided to start my walk in May, a time of year with ideal weather and beautiful nature.
I thought I had planned everything pretty well but there were a few details that, had I known beforehand, would have enhanced the trip considerably.
The traditional Camino starts in France, hence the name “Camino Frances” in the town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. It is approximately 800 kilometers (500 miles) long and generally takes people 30 to 35 days to complete.
However, I decided to walk the Sarria to Santiago route, a 114-kilometer (70 miles) trek across northern Galicia, that still allows you to obtain the Compostela or pilgrim’s certificate. And I did it in 10 days, a nice leisurely walk.
I knew I did not want to carry my backpack, so I researched transportation companies that transport your bags ensuring they arrive at your accommodation by 5 pm on your arrival day. These companies also book the accommodations on the route as well as provide the necessary literature and maps.
Although I managed the walk quite well, here are some things I wish I knew beforehand.
What I wish I knew before starting on the Camino de Santiago
Hiking shoes are not mandatory. Everyone recommends hiking boots/shoes, and I’m sure they work fine for many. I brought mine along with sneakers or trainers.
The hiking books gave me blisters, so I switched to tennis shoes and completed the walk with no problem. I used Hoka-brand sneakers that were a 1/2 size larger than what I normally wear.
That extra space in the toe box helped, so don’t feel the hiking shoes are your only option. But if you use sneakers, make sure they are the best
Know what the weather is going to be throughout the day and dress accordingly. The weather varied considerably from town to town.
Don’t assume the weather you experienced on the first day will be the same throughout. Use layers and definitely bring appropriate rain gear.
Some accommodation hours are strictly enforced. Many lodgings don’t open until 2 or 3 pm. Not even to let you store your luggage before check-in. You don’t want to end up waiting for hours in front of your lodging until they open.
Plan accordingly by arriving at check-in time or calling beforehand to see if they let you store your luggage.
Don’t trust paper maps. If you book through an agency that arranges your walk, they may give you maps. These are fine as a general reference, but double-check everything with your smartphone maps/ GPS.
The road is very well marked! This was my biggest surprise. I just couldn’t believe the road would be that easy to follow. The markers were strategically and very visibly placed throughout the route. It’s almost impossible to get lost.
Another treat and pleasant surprise is that the road seems to be designed to weave through some of the most beautiful countryside and interesting towns and villages.
You can get your Compostela stamp from anywhere. You need at least 2 stamps per day on your Compostela booklet.
I thought you could only get them from churches but you get them at accommodations, restaurants and stops along the Camino de Santiago.
Surprisingly, you can also get them from miscellaneous entrepreneurs who station themselves along the Camino de Santiago. They will provide a stamp in return for a donation, or no donation at all.
Some of these entrepreneurs include musicians, foreigners volunteering, people selling little local delicacies, bracelets or other goods, people stamping your Compostela with wax stamps (very popular) or melted metal (even more desired).
Lastly, many locations simply leave the stamp and ink out for anyone to come and stamp their Compostela booklets as they wish. This guarantees that everyone will have the 2-stamp minimum on their Compostela.
People can become emotionally invested in the Camino de Santiago.
There are many reasons for people to embark on a Camino de Santiago walk. Some do it for the challenge (me), but others have deeper, more meaningful motivations.
Some pilgrims feel compelled to follow the Medieval religious example of walking the Camino to reach what is said to be the tomb of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela.
Others just want to share the universal feeling of brotherhood with all the pilgrims of various nationalities: Australia, Taiwan, Korea, Mexico, Spain, the U.S., Israel, and many, many more.
They all choose to walk the Camino de Santiago, leaving a little bit of their soul and goodwill along the way.
There are many different Caminos.
I knew there was more than one Camino. I just didn’t know how many and where they were.
- The Camino Frances or French Way, the most popular starting at St Jean Pied de Port, traverses all of Spain to end at Santiago de Compostela. It contains the popular short route from the Galician town of Sarria to Santiago.
- The Camino del Norte is said to be the hardest, with over 800 km of challenging coastline. It is also reputed to be the loveliest, with breathtaking views of the northern coast.
- The Camino Primitivo is short at 260 km but has a series of tough hills to cross.
- The shortest route is the Camino Ingles, which starts at Ferrol on the northern coast and ends at Santiago.
- The Camino Portugues is also very popular. The complete route runs north from Lisbon to Santiago, but many people prefer to start at Porto. If pressed for time, you can even start further north at Tui, on the Spanish border, and still qualify for a certificate verifying your walk
Best Camino to take if your time (and energy) is limited
Camino Frances from Sarria to Santiago
This was the route I took. It is just over the 100km requirements necessary to get your pilgrim certificate or Compostela.
The journey can be done in any amount of time you want. 5, 7, 10 days or more. You can even do 50 km in one trip, then return next year to do the other 50km.
This is also the case with all other routes. Some pilgrims take years to get their Compostela, completing a few kilometers a year over many years.
This is an easy walk but with plenty of opportunities to see various landscapes and small villages.
You’ll see lush vegetation, crisscrossing rivers and bubbling streams. This area is famous for its eucalyptus forests and soaring oak trees.
Don’t forget that the route from Sarria to Santiago is also the busiest, so if you want peace and quiet, you may want to consider another route.
You will see cemeteries all along the route. These are beautiful and open to the public. Go in and explore the history from the gravestones and the local church. You can usually get a stamp from the local church.
Camino Portugues from Tui to Santiago
The best thing about this route is that you get a feel for Portugal as well as Spain. At 118 km, this is one of the easiest routes of all and can be walked in 6 to 7 days or less, if you’re really ambitious.
Given a choice, I’d do it in 10 days just to savor the route.
On the Camino Portugues, you will see medieval villages with town centers that have not changed in centuries. The landscape is verdant and lush with large forests and expansive farmlands.
This route combines history, beautiful landscapes, easy hiking, and great cuisine. Is it any wonder people love it?!
Camino Via de La Plata from Ourense
If you want peace and quiet while you contemplate the green Galician countryside, this is your route.
This 111 km walk can be completed in 5 to 7 days and is bursting with thick woods and charming villages that are deceptively sleepy during the day but come alive at night with tapas bars.
Camino Primitivo from Lugo
This is the oldest route and, as such, is dotted with Roman ruins and charming medieval villages. Lugo itself is surrounded by one of the best-preserved 3rd-century Roman walls in Europe.
You will cross medieval bridges and walk the same roads walked by Romans over 2000 years ago, passing forests, farmland and orchards.
This is by no means a complete list. There are other routes available in many countries.
The route from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela on the Camino de Santiago – Where I stayed
Sarria
Sarria is the most popular starting point for the Camino Francés, as it’s the minimum distance (100 km) required to earn the Pilgrim Certificate or “Compostela”. When I left Sarria, I noted 114 km rather than 100.
The town of Sarria is part of Lugo province, located about 30 km away from Lugo, the capital of the province of Galicia.
These lands have been inhabited since ancient times, as the megalithic graves bear evidence. The town was important for the Roman legion to support what was once the important Roman town of Lugo.
Sarria is small with a compact “old town” which has some really cool buildings: the castle, although just part of the wall and the tower remain, the convent of Magdalena with its magnificent cloister, and the churches of Santa Marina and El Salvador.
The town has lots of accommodations in all price ranges, from albergues – a type of hostel – to higher-end hotels, restaurants, and shops that cater to everything pilgrim-related. I stayed at the Casona de Sarria. They don’t open for check-in until 2 PM, so keep that in mind.
This is a great place to load up on whatever pilgrim accessories you may need. This is where I bought my walking poles. You are sure to find groups of happy, excited pilgrims anticipating and preparing for their walk on the Camino de Santiago.
Ferreiros
Your first day is enjoyable and full of anticipation. Once you leave Sarria, you are swallowed up by the beautiful Galician rural life and landscapes until you reach Ferreiros.
Ferreiros is a tiny hamlet with a small population and a couple of typical stone houses for accommodations. Many pilgrims skip Ferreiros entirely and head to the next stop, Portomarin.
I’m glad I stopped there because I stayed in a large, ancient stone house, Casina de Campo, that was refurbished as a farm house, an altogether unique experience.
Ferreiros’s claim to fame is that it is where you’ll find the 100 km marker, a major milestone for many pilgrims, where people like to take pictures to mark the occasion.
Portomarin
Portomarín sits on a hill high above the Miño River. Among the many things to see is a reconstructed Romanesque church moved stone by stone from its original location when the original town was flooded in order to build a reservoir.
You need to climb up the stairs at the town’s entrance in order to get to the center of town. The town offers many attractions and accommodations and is a favorite stop on the Camino de Santiago.
I stayed at Casa de Santa Marina. It’s about 20 minutes outside of town, so you need to call them to pick you up and take you to the hotel. But it is totally worth it. The place is beautiful with a lovely backyard overlooking a vineyard where you can have meals.
Ventas del Naron
This is basically a hamlet with a few albergues. People stop here for a meal or a coffee to get their energy up. But there isn’t very much to see. It is pretty, though, sitting on a stretch of rolling farmland and open countryside.
This is another place where I had to call the accommodation, Casa Roan, to pick me up. It was another lovely stay.
Palas de Rei
Palas de Rei, or The King’s Palace, is a great place to stop and resupply. It has good infrastructure, supermarkets, and pharmacies and many accommodation options.
It’s a key location for breaking up longer walks. And most pilgrims stop here. The pulpo, or grilled octopus, is the town’s signature dish, and worth a try.
I stayed at the Pension Casa As Hortas in a refurbished old stone house with a few comfy rooms.
Melide
Like many towns in Galicia, Melide is famous for its pulperías—restaurants that serve Galicia’s signature dish, pulpo a la gallega (Galician-style octopus).
It’s a good-sized, busy, active town where two important Caminos converge, the Camino Frances and the Camino Primitivo.
My accommodation in Melide was the Carlos 96 Hotel, the first real hotel in the traditional sense I stayed at since the beginning of the tour. The hotel was efficient with washing machines on the first floor.
They also offer massages in your room. I tried one and I thought it was fine. A massage after an 18 km walk is heavenly.
Arzua
Arzua is one of the last big towns before reaching Santiago. It has everything you need to stock up for the last few kilometers: accommodations, shops, and restaurants.
The Camino through here tends to be more urban, but it is still stunning in many parts.
My accommodation here was one of the most interesting. I stayed at Boutique Hotel 1930. The place reminded me of Havana, Cuba and the Caribbean in general.
I asked the management if there was any connection with Cuba. They told me the owner’s grandfather had traveled to Cuba in the ’30s, made his money and returned to Arzua to open a hotel. Over the years, the hotel kept the aura of a 1930s hotel in Havana.
There is a gourmet restaurant in the hotel that you must make reservations for. I missed it. The breakfast was extraordinary. I can only imagine what the gourmet dinner would have been like.
It was in the town of Arzua where I discovered the most extraordinary crisp, dry, white wine I ever tasted. It’s called Godello, similar to an Albarino, another Galician wine. The wine regions of Galicia are among the best wine regions in the world.
Rua
Rúa (or O Pedrouzo) is typically the final overnight stop for many pilgrims before reaching Santiago. It has a strong pilgrim community atmosphere, with lots of places to stay and eat.
Emotions tend to run high here as walkers prepare for the final push.
In Rua, I stayed at Casa de Acivro, a lovely spot just outside of town.
Vilamaior
A tiny village just a few kilometers from Santiago, Vilamaior offers a peaceful pause before the excitement of the journey’s end. There are limited services, but it’s a scenic spot surrounded by eucalyptus trees.
It’s a great place to gather your thoughts before entering the city. I stayed at Casa de Amancio.
If you love visiting cemeteries for their cultural and historical value, the Camino de Santiago will offer you some of the most beautiful and culturally significant cemeteries
Santiago de Compostela – The end of the Camino
This is the last day of the Camino de Santiago!
The last day or two were mainly spent through woods and farmland, on forest tracks and quiet country roads.
Then, once you pass the perimeter of the airport and go through the hamlets of San Paio and Lavacolla, you can start seeing the spires of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, your ultimate goal.
Arriving in Santiago de Compostela and getting your “Compostela”.
OK, so once you arrive, you need to go to the Pilgrims Reception Office and hand in your Compostela booklet.
There, they will evaluate it to make sure you’ve had two stamps per day, and they will give you your Compostela confirming that you have, in fact, completed the approved Camino de Santiago.
At this point, they will also give you your official document, the Compostela. Congratulations! Your Compostela will be delivered in an impressive document. Now you can relax and explore the city.
If it is at all possible, stay at the Parador de Los Reyes Catolicos in Santiago de Compostela. I tried to stay there but couldn’t get a reservation as they were booked weeks in advance.
The Parador is part of a group of higher-end hotels, or “paradores” run by the Spanish government called Paradores de España. Most are refurbished churches, hospitals, monasteries, abbeys and other Medieval structures that would have been destroyed if not converted into lodgings.
The parador in Santiago is among the most beautiful and historic in all of Spain. It was once an ancient hospital built by Queen Isabela and King Ferdinand.
This is the same Queen Isabela who financed Christopher Columbus’ journey to the Americas, ushering in Spain’s Golden Age. How cool is THAT!
Cool things to do in Santiago de Compostela
Visit the Museum of the Galician People
If you are interested in the history of the area, this is the place to go to learn about the customs, traditions and history of the Galician people.
Praza das Praterias
Look at this wonderful plaza full of spectacular buildings, museums, and so much more! Isn’t it magnificent? It is one of the most famous squares in Santiago de Compostela.
The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
The cathedral offers pilgrims and everyone else several exciting options for learning adventures. One of those is visiting the cathedral’s treasury.
The rooftop of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
One of the attractions in Santiago de Compostela is to go to the rooftop of the cathedral and actually walk on the roof.
Once you get over your 3 or 4 seconds of “OMG, what am I doing on this rooftop!” you will be fascinated by the height, views and proximity to the cathedral spires.
There are so many wonderful options for having a good, authentic meal in Santiago de Compostela, but my favorites are the restaurants on Rua de Franco or Franco Street. Just about everything on this street is good.
Want to learn more about life on the Camino de Santiago? Check out these interesting books.
Do you want to go walking on the Camino de Santiago? Which route would you choose? What is your reason for going? Let us know in the comments.
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