How to Experience a Koyasan Temple Stay in Japan

A Koyasan temple stay should be at the top of your must-do activities in Japan if you want to experience the fascinating, traditional culture.

While I was researching a trip to Japan I read up on interesting and unusual places to stay. I considered accommodations like the traditional ryokan onsen (hot spring spas).

I looked at capsule or pod hotels where you sleep in what is  essentially a capsule, certainly one of the coolest things to do in Japan. But the thought of a Japanese Buddhist temple lodging just fascinated me.

Select and book a temple stay

Some of these temples are Buddhist monasteries that are over a thousand years old with resident monks and religious services.

They tend to be in beautiful and religiously significant areas of the country. What a wonderful opportunity to get out of your comfort zone for deeper immersion in fascinating Japanese culture.

This is not just reading about the experience, it’s living it. A temple lodging in Japan is one of those unique experiences that make travel so worthwhile.

I quickly became totally taken up with the idea of temple lodging in Japan but had no idea how to go about finding and booking the right one.

After much groping my way around the web I came across a site with English-speaking staff called Japanese Guest Houses. English is not very common in temples so I was happy to find them speaking pretty good English.

The staff explained the Japanese temple stay process patiently and professionally. I wasn’t sure which temple to choose and they showed me location options, pricing and what’s included.

I changed my itinerary several times and they accommodated me graciously. The service was excellent which I quickly learned was typical of Japan.

I eventually settled on a temple stay in a Buddhist monastery at a place called  Shojoshin-in, in Koyasan or Mount Koya, a religious community and one of Japan’s most sacred sites, and I booked the stay.

“Koya” is the name of the mountain in the area and “san” is a term of respect hence the word “Koya-san” as in Honorable Koya Mountain.

Once you book, they send you an etiquette guide on the dos and don’ts of staying at a Japanese temple or ryokan (traditional inn).

I was so happy with the service, I ended up booking both the Koyasan temple lodging and a traditional onsen ryokan, a traditional inn with hot springs.

Be aware that there is a 24 hours response time because the company, Japanese Guest Houses, is in Japan. You can also book through other services like booking.com.

How to get to your Koyasan temple

Getting to remote Koyasan is an experience in itself. After all, it is on top of Mt. Koya.

Take the Nankai Electric Railway from Namba Station in Osaka. This will take you to Gokurakubashi at the base of the mountain (make sure you have your Japan Rail Pass.)

In Gokurakubashi you must take one of the cable cars up the mountain for another 10 minutes. Make sure to get a window seat because it is a beautiful ride.

The cable car will leave you at the cable car station where you can take the bus at the bus station to Okunoin.

The bus ride takes 20 minutes and costs 410 yen from the cable car station. The bus stop is at the entrance of the cemetery.

This being Japan, directions are clearly marked and people are very helpful, so you won’t get lost. Either Kyoto or Osaka are convenient bases from which to visit Koyasan.

If you’re planning a visit to Kyoto, here are some good Kyoto Ryokans that have private baths and onsens.

You may be tempted to make it a day trip. Don’t. There isn’t enough time to travel there and absorb the culture comfortably.  The objective is the experience of a Koyasan temple lodging on an overnight stay.

Koya-san was founded in the early 800s CE. The compound grew to include over 120 beautiful temples.

The adherents of Shingon Buddhism consider the town and mountain sacred because it is the resting place of Kobo Daishi, the religion’s founder.

Okunoin Cemetery

Just down the road from the temple is the Okunoin Cemetery. If you’re looking for the ultimate in unique experiences in Japan, this is it. The Okunoin Cemetery in Koya-san, Japan is one of Japan’s most sacred places.

In fact, the area is so meaningful to its adherents that it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. Okunoin is the oldest and most well-known cemetery in Japan.

This necropolis is the final resting place of about 300,000 residents. That number could be at least double because no one really knows for sure as this cemetery is over 1200 years old.

The adherents of Shingdon Buddhism regard this area as sacred because it houses the mausoleum of the religion’s founder, Kobo Daishi.

The Kobo Daishe mausoleum lies at the center of the Okunoin cemetery, surrounded by thousands of stupas or gravestones and tall cedars. It is definitely one of the most fascinating cemeteries of the world.

The interior of the sumptuous burial place is lit by a multitude of lanterns that, the legend says, have been burning for over 1,000 years, ever since the spiritual leader began meditating there.

The resident monks and other followers of the religion believe the founder, Kobo Daishe is still residing in his tomb. He is believed to be in a type of very deep meditation.

For this reason, regular daily meals are prepared and ritually offered to him regularly.

For the religion’s followers, it is critical for them to be physically close to their Kobo Daishe. But a follower need not be buried in the cemetery.

Even a lock of hair in the cemetery will be enough to have an important connection to Kobo Daishi.

That way the followers can be sure they will be among the first to welcome the future Buddha once he returns to Earth.

Beyond the religious aspects of the necropolis, it is the size of the place that is surprising. It holds a sea of stupas or headstones, stone lanterns, monuments and mausoleums as far as the eye can see.

Shingdon Buddhism teaches that all creatures are equally valuable. As a result, the cemetery has monuments dedicated to insects erected by the pesticide company that exterminated them.

There are also memorials to enemies of Japan killed in wars over the years, certainly a unique perspective.

Insider tip: Don’t miss the Okunoin Cemetery Night Tour given by local English-speaking resident monks from the Buddhist monastery.

If you think the cemetery sounds interesting during the day, a nighttime visit will fascinate you. At night this massive resting place transforms into an ethereal and somber cemetery. This is a great time to visit.

The ghostly yellow lights from the stone lanterns light up one by one at dusk casing long shadows among the tombstones.

The cemetery is populated by a large group of flying squirrels that fly from tree to tree at night emitting a high-pitched screech.

Resident night owls complete the picture making for quite an otherworldly experience. The resident monks give tours in pretty good English and answer questions from the tour group on the night tours.

Every tour has the same question; what is the significance of the little child-like statues dressed in red articles of clothing like capes, scarves and hats.

They are known as the Jizo Bosatsu and they are seen all over the cemetery.

These are stone figurines representing spiritual beings. These representations strive for the enlightenment not only of themselves, but of all living creatures.

Some Jizo Bosatsu look cute but there is a sad story behind their benign appearance.

They represent the spiritual beings that protect the souls of children that left the Earth unexpectedly and before their time.

To make sure the spirits are not cold in the chilly mountain nights, they are outfitted with warm clothing. Others can sport elaborate capes, lipstick and decorative make up.

The unforgettable sight of thousands of these stone Jizo Bosatsu dressed in children’s clothing in a cemetery setting at dusk is something that will stay with you forever.

Night tours to Okunoin Cemetery can be booked at the tourist information desks around town or online at about 1800 yen. Admission to the cemetery is free.

The Shojoshin temple experience

Once you arrive at Shojoshin-In you quickly realize the level of authenticity you will experience. This is not a Disneyland-esque representation of a Japanese temple.

This is the real thing, a working Japanese temple with resident monks and regular religious services. Inside the temple, everything is traditional Japanese.

At reception, you kneel on cushions, pay the monk in advance and receive your room number. There are no room keys. This is, after all, a temple.

The monk at reception informed us that morning prayers would take place at 6 am the next morning. I assumed he was just letting me know as a courtesy. In fact, the monks make it clear that you are expected to attend the 45-minute morning service.

Now, some folks may be put off by the thought of waking up at 6 am to attend the morning prayer ceremony of a religion you know very little about. Set your alarm clock and just go! It is a soothing, beautiful, unique experience which you are allowed to film.

Services are open to all regardless of religious affiliation or lack thereof.

In a place like Shojoshin-in, a night at a Mount Koya temple lodging can cost anywhere between 8,000 and 18,000 Japanese yen per person depending on the temple and the location of the room.

This cost includes dinner and breakfast. Japanese temple lodgings in less religiously significant cities will be less expensive. It is important to note that many temples will only accept cash.

It is also possible to book the room without dinner or any of the meals, but the meals are such an integral part of a temple stay in Japan that you really should sign up for them.

Eat like a monk: A multi-course vegetarian meal

A multi-course, Japanese style haute Buddhist cuisine dinner is called a shojin ryori.

The temple tries to emulate this traditional shojin ryori but only with vegetarian food, in keeping with the Buddhist belief that it is wrong to take the life of a fellow creature.

A ryori can involve as many as 20 dishes served on a low table. The meals are fresh, seasonal, locally sourced, innovative dishes and they are delicious. Surprisingly you don’t miss the meat and other ingredients in these vegetarian meals.

Creatively prepared dishes make great substitutes for meat. I discovered ingredients I had never experienced before which is always a delight! Breakfast is served after services and dinner tends to be early.

Meals are served by Buddhist monks in communal dining rooms.

The guest rooms are, as expected, traditional Japanese rooms with tatami mat floors, sliding doors and futons laid out on the floor which are then stored away during the day.

In winter, heaters are provided in the rooms. Many rooms will face or open out to serene gardens. It’s all very relaxing. Free Wi-Fi is available but there are no TVs.

Shojoshin-in offered gender-segregated communal public baths and bathrooms which the monks also use (I saw no female religious personnel).

My favorite part of a Koyasan temple stay is being able to explore the temple grounds and the main temple itself. Most temples are surrounded by tranquil gardens with ponds and decorative statues.

The architecture of the temples is also noteworthy with intricately carved wooden structures throughout. Strolling through the temples and gardens is a definite highlight of the stay.  Overall a delightful experience.

Getting around Japan is easy with the Japan Rail Pass. The Japan Rail Pass is the single most important travel tool I used while in Japan.

Learn more about Japan with these useful country guides.

A Japanese temple stay is an unforgettable cultural immersion experience you should not miss when in Japan. Would you like to go?

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