The Rias Baixas wine region of Spain’s northwestern region of Galicia is one of the most beautiful wine regions of Spain and certainly one of the finest European wine regions.
The area produces a crisp, white wine known as the albariño grape. A less common variety is a red albariño.
I traveled to Spain’s Rias Baixas wine region with the intention of sampling the delicious white wine from the Albariño grape that had been receiving such accolades in the wine community.
I did sample the wine but as a happy bonus I discovered the beauty of the region.
Spain’s Galician autonomous region consists of four provinces; Lugo, A Coruña, Ouense and Pontevedra. The Rias Baixas wine region is mostly located in the far west of Pontevedra province. It is situated between two important “rias” or estuaries in the lower “baixas” part of the province, hence the name Rias Baixas.
Here I ‘d like to share this Spanish road trip like no other where wine lovers can sample albariño in the jawdroppingly beautiful Rias Baixas wine region of Galicia, Spain.
What’s albariño wine like?
The Albariño wine is dry and crisp. The color is late afternoon sunshine with rays of emerald and gold. It has a smooth taste with a fruity bouquet but not a fruity taste. A tad salty with a whiff of citrus. Like many white wines, the fresh, smooth taste is perfect with seafood, fish, cheeses and the hearty empanada Gallega, a local delicacy similar to a savory meat or fish pie with a flakey crust.
A little history of albariño wine in the Rias Baixas wine region
Although there is evidence of winemaking in Rias Baixas since Roman times, the albariño grape is believed to have been introduced into the area in the 12th century by monks from Pontevedra, the capital of the province.
The ideal wine-growing weather and terrain contributed to the wine’s popularity throughout the centuries as did wine exports to other European countries. A major earthquake destroyed many of the wineries and vineyards in 1885 but they rebuilt with updated technologies and agricultural practices.
In 1988 the Rias Baixas wine appellation was officially declared and formed. Today, most of the cultivated area of the Rias Baixas Designation of Origin, or D.O., is occupied by the Albariño grape although there are other outstanding varieties as well.
The D.O. consists of five sub-regions: Soutomaior, Ribeira de Ulla, Condado de Tea, O Rosal and Val de Salnes. The Val de Salnes sub-region is the most well known with the most production and the one I visited for this article.
Today there are over 100 wineries in the Rias Baixas wine region. Some can be as small as half an acre in one’s back yard for home use and some sales to local wineries and restaurants.
Many of the wineries are managed by women, a vestige of the days when Galician men spent much time at sea and left the women to manage the family homestead and businesses.
How to get to the Rias Baixas wine region
Three important cities in the area have major airports; Vigo south of Rias Baixas, Santiago de Compostela northwest of the area and A Coruña to the northeast. These are connected by flights from most important Spanish cities and some international cities as well.
The area is served by efficient train and bus systems. Tickets for flights, train and buses can be purchased at Omio.com.
Renting a car in Spain is easy and straightforward. I rented one in Vigo and drove around the Rias Baixas area along excellent roads.
Pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago can stop in the Rias Baixas wine region as it is on the Portuguese way.
Wine tasting in Rias Baixas. Follow the wine route
Yes, there are over 100 wineries in the Rias Baixas, but not all are large Rias Baixas wine producers where you can book a tasting. The Rias Baixas tourism website is also a useful resource.
Here is a list of wineries that offer wine sampling (by appointment only, no walk-ins.) Average cost of the sampling is 15 to 20 Euros. All tastings will feature a white Albariño but other varietals are also featured.
If you are looking for a small area with a large concentration of wineries, focus on the Val do Salnes area. You can winery-hop to your heart’s content as many wineries are just a few minutes away from each other.
Some of these places also offer accommodations and a restaurant.
One of the coolest things to do when visiting Galicia and the Rias coast is to stay at one of these winery mansions, or pazos, sipping crisp Galician wines on the terrace while anticipating a seafood dinner of pulpo a la feira, (Galician octopus.) A dry vino Albariño will never disappoint.
My favorite Rias Baixas wineries
There are many outstanding wineries in the Rias Baixas wine region but there stood out for remarkable beauty, gracious hospitality and a superior product.
Bodegas Pazo Señorans
This beautiful winery not only offers excellent albariño wines and spirits, the winery itself is almost a museum. Pazo Señorans is also an event venue where weddings and other important life milestones are celebrated.
The mansion itself is a perfect example of a 16th century Galician manor house complete with gardens, sumptuous rooms, an original wine making vat, secret panic rooms and more!
One of the most charming things I found at Señorans was the two little angels situated by the altar of the ancient family chapel.
Of course the wine is the major attraction at Bodegas Pazo Señorans. These fabulous Galician wines, especially the white albariño, are stars at the wine tasting.
Santiago Roma Winery
Nestled high in the rolling hills of the Rias Baixas wine region is the Santiago Roma Winery.
The first thing that strikes you is the area’s natural beauty…and the two big and beautiful mastiffs that wander the winery.
The master winemaker, Santiago Roma, is one of a long line of wine professionals producing some of the finest wines in the region.
One recent wine innovation is the finishing production of wine in a stone “barrel.” The stone is native to the region and contributes to the characteristics of the wine. This unique albariño has has a slightly salty and mineral-like flavor with apple notes.
Named “Pedernai” which loosely translates into mother of stone, “It is the result of an innovative and patented world-wide idea of winemaker, Santiago Roma. A special elaboration following the range of the entire winemaking process of the Santiago Roma Selección.”
Palacio de Fefiñanes
This winery is located right in the center of Cambados, considered to be the capital of Albariño wine country.
This winery has major history. The family, minor Spanish royalty, has been involved in wine making since the 1600s. Today, the winery and manor house is still owned by a marquis.
If you don’t have a car to visit the wineries and happen to be in Cambados, do visit the Palacio de Fefiñanes. The manor house is worthy of Spanish royalty and the product offering is spectacular.
Schedule a tour and visit the cellars, winery and manor house.
Where to stay in the Rias Baixas wine region
There are many accommodation options in the Rias Baixas wine region. But…if you really want to go unique and in keeping with the old world Spanish history and charm, stay in either a parador or a wine region manor house.
A parador is a Spanish government owned and operated high-end hotel. These are former churches, monasteries, hospitals, convents and abbeys that, due to the decline in religious observance in Spain, have fallen into disuse.
Rather than demolish these historical treasures, the Spanish government has transformed them into high-end hotels. The prices are surprisingly reasonable, depending on where they are located, and the experience is unparalleled.
Since the Rias Baixas wine region is so small, you can base yourself in one location, make daily excursions to the villages and wineries and return to the same location every day.
Places to stay in Rias Baixas include these outstanding paradores: Parador de Pontevedra and Parador de Cambados.
Looking to stay in a country manor? One of your best options is the Quinta de San Amaro in the center of the wine region.
Other things to do in the Rias Baixas wine region
Looking for other activities in the area? Try the Museum of Wine for true vino aficionados.
Visit the ruins of the Cemetery of Santa Mariña for extraordinary funerary statuary in an idyllic country setting in Cambados.
How about a full day tour to one of the outer Islands with a mussel boat? Or a private tour of the wine region in a Porsche? There are many options.
Places to eat in Rias Baixas (all are Michelin starred)
There are several Michelin rated restaurants in the Rias Baixas wine region. One town in particular, however, has a ridiculous number of Michelin rated restaurants for a town its size…Cambados.
Here is a small sampling of delightful restaurants in the area.
The Michelin Guide to restaurants in Cambados, Rias Baixas wine region.
When is the best time to visit the Rias Baixas wine region?
The best time to visit the Rias Baixas wine region of Galicia is in the late spring or early fall. The summer month are jam-packed with local and international tourists. It may become difficult to get a wine tasting reservation and the Michelin rated restaurants may be full. Plus, its really hot.
In the winter time, many restaurants and hotels close for the season.
Go in the late spring when the wildflowers bloom and the weather is crisp and cool. The fall offers sights of the vineyards heavy with ripe grapes waiting for the harvest.
Want to know more about the amazing Rias Baixas wine region of Galicia, Spain? Check out these reference materials.
The Rias Baixas wine region has something for everyone; wine, history, gastronomy, nature and more.
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