PARIS OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Paris highlights are glorious, but exploring Paris off the beaten path can be equally rewarding.

I spent a week exploring the hidden gems of Paris and now want to share my favorite tips for enjoying Paris off the beaten track.

Explore lesser-known museums like the Musee Carnavalet, savor exquisite meals without the high prices, discover covered arcades, stroll shady cobblestone streets, and picnic in historic leafy squares. It’s all here.

Whether you’re hitting the Paris highlights like the Louvre or the wonderful Paris off the beaten path attractions in this post, make sure to use a Paris All Inclusive with Museum Pass. You’ll save a ton of money and you’ll skip many of the lines.

Off-the-beaten-track Paris museums

Musee Bourdelle

This Musee Bourdelle was once the home of the artist Emile-Antoine Bourdelle where he lived, worked and taught for many years.

Most of the museum’s collections are the artist’s works but they also display works from other artists like Burdelle’s daughter and son-in-law.

The artist specialized in sculptures that are displayed throughout the home and the garden. It’s hard to believe this little gem is free to enjoy.

This is a delightful, underrated museum very much off the beaten track with a charming garden and a little cafeteria. It is closed on Mondays.

Insider tip: Don’t miss the museum’s main attraction, “The Archer” although my favorite was Joan of Arc.

Musee de la Vie Romantique

Paris is known for its grand museums like the Louvre and Musee d’Orsay. But there are many other off the beaten path gems, many of which are established in what were once personal homes.

The Musee de la Vie Romantique or Museum of Romantic Life is one such gem. It is located at the bottom of the Montmartre hill in the former home of Dutch-born artist Ary Scheffer who lived there in the mid-19th century.

The museum houses paintings, sculptures, documents, and period furniture. As this home was once a meeting place for the artistic luminaries of the day like Frederick Chopin and George Sands, much of their memorabilia is displayed as well.

The museum is closed on Mondays. The metro stop is Saint Georges or Pigalle. If you go to Montmartre, you can easily walk to this museum and make a day of it.

Musee d’Armee

The Musee de l’Armee or Army Museum is not necessarily off the beaten path in Paris but it is on this list because there is so much to see that people often miss.

People interested in France’s military history often see just one section of this massive collection. In fact, there are seven sections, each one more interesting than the next.

Main courtyard and artillery collections

• Main courtyard and artillery collection
• Armour and weapons from the 13th to the 17th centuries
• From Louis XIV to Napoleon III
• All about Charles de Gaulle
• Musee de l’Ordre de la Liberation
• Museum of military models

For those who enjoy playing dress-up, there is a section at this museum where you can don period clothing and photograph yourself as anything from a WWI soldier to a General.

Yes, it’s a totally tacky and touristy thing to do but…I couldn’t resist. This is one of the most fun “Paris off the beaten path things to do.”

The museum is right next door to the Cathedral of Saint-Louis des Invalides with its incredible dome. This area contains Napoleon’s tomb carved out of red marble, itself an architectural marvel.

The 16.00 Euro admission fee gets you into all the exhibits. Get off at the Les Invalids metro stop.

Unlike most museums in Paris, the Musee de l’Armee is open every day.

Musee Carnavalet

Nestled on a side street of the Le Marais District, the Musee Carnavalet showcases the history of Paris from prehistory to the present.

The museum was formed by combining two mansions. It houses a wonderful collection of period furniture, art, maps and sculptures.

My favorite exhibits were the Gallo-Roman artifacts and the more recent Art Deco collections.

There is something about seeing Art Deco art in the very place where it was first created.

The museum is located in the Le Marais District so you can spend the entire day wandering this fascinating neighborhood and enjoying the museum.

The Musee Carnavalet is closed on Mondays.

Off the beaten track Paris Jazz Clubs

Paris is a wonderful jazz city. Similar to New York City, you can find great jazz in many parts of town. Head to Lombard Street where several jazz clubs are congregated one right after the other.

38 Riv’ Jazz Club

This cool jazz spot on Rue Rivoli near the Seine offers jazz in a cozy basement with great acoustics.

Some of the best acts in Paris perform here.

Insider tip: It’s very popular and hard to get in. Make reservations online, it’s cheaper than in person.

Le Baiser Sale

Le Baiser Sale is another small venue. The house band has been playing here for over 17 years and they still fill up the place.

The venue is upstairs where you can also get a cocktail and snack while you listen to the music.

Duc des Lombard

The Duc des Lombard is a larger venue but still difficult to get in if you just show up. Reserve ahead of time. The music is a combination of Latin, Blues, Bebop and more.

Another one of the “Paris off the beaten path” cool jazz clubs on Lombard Street.

Off the Beaten Track Paris restaurants

Bouillon Chartier

I’m going to expand upon this topic probably more than you want to know but I can’t help it.

We stumbled upon this restaurant by sheer chance. We were looking for a typically Parisian, non-touristy restaurant that served traditional French fare. Boy did we find it!

The word bouillon means broth. But when applied to a restaurant, like Bouillon Chartier, it means a restaurant that serves classic French dishes made with quality products at affordable prices. They certainly deliver on that promise.

In 1896 the Chartier Brothers opened the first Bouillon in Paris. It has since extended to multiple restaurants in the heart of Paris.

The food is simple, traditional and delicious like roast chicken and steak frites. The service is friendly and efficient…and FAST! There is no wine by the glass but you get a little carafe which comes out to about one and a half glasses. The desserts are to die for.

The best part of the meal is the prices. Very reasonable for Paris or any other major city. It was so good that we went there twice in 5 days!

Insider tip: They do not take reservations and there is usually a line to get in. Be patient. It is so worth it.

Le Marine

Another charming cafe/restaurant with unpretentious, delicious food at reasonable prices in the center of Paris. When asking for a restaurant recommendation I always ask locals where THEY eat, not where they recommend to tourists. That usually works very well.

Il Sorentino

Enjoy sumptuous Italian food in view of the Eifel Tower. You’re going to be in that area anyway.

You’re probably saying, “Why would I have Italian food in Paris, of all places?” Just trust me on this one. Try the pasta dish in a scooped-out cheese bowl. Go ahead spoil yourself.

Substance

If you absolutely must have a Michelin-starred meal in Paris, Substance is one very good option.

They serve original, beautifully prepared dishes that are so lovely you feel that eating them is a crime.

Some of their specialties are unique takes on traditional dishes like burgers, chocolate cake and soups. You won’t believe how they transform these simple dishes. True artistry.

It is difficult to get a reservation so plan ahead. You may even consider making a reservation from your home country to make sure you reserve your spot.

A meal here is not merely “Substance,” it is an experience. The prices are commensurate with the showmanship.

Off the beaten path Paris streets, arcades and squares

Rue Montorgueil

I think this is one of the most beautiful and fun streets in Paris. This is a leftover from the old Les Halles markets. The street is lined with bakeries, fruit and flower stands, cheese stores, butcher shops and fish and produce markets.

There are also excellent restaurants with great “happy hours.” It is a feast for all the senses and one of the best Paris off-the-beaten-path destinations.

The Arcades of Paris

The ultimate Paris off-the-beaten-path activity is to explore the city’s covered arcades. These shopping areas are full of delightful unique stores and restaurants. Below is a map of where the arcades are found.

They are covered, so you can explore them even when it rains. They are found all over the city so you are never too far away from one.

Place des Vosges

This historic plaza is in the Marais District. It is one of the most beautiful and oldest plazas of Paris. Go here for a picnic.

People come to this wonderful square to picnic and just chill on the grass.

The area behind Montmartre

Everyone goes to Montmartre with it’s beautiful Basilica of SacreCoeur. But few take the time to explore the neighborhood behind the Basilica.

It is a charming neighborhood with cobblestone streets, vine-covered cottages and traditional restaurants. All with an expansive view!

Off-the-beaten-path Paris attractions

Paris Catacombs

This may or may not be considered a Paris off-the-beaten-path attraction depending on your tastes and interests. But I found it so fascinating I just had to mention it.

Sixty-five feet under the streets of Paris you’ll find the Paris Catacombs, a boneyard or ossuary consisting of the bones of millions of Parisians.

You enter through a kilometer-long tunnel which takes you to several rooms filled with strategically placed skulls and bones. At each stop, there are signs telling the history of the catacombs. It is an incredibly eerie and actually very moving experience.

The 29 Euro admission fee includes an audio guide which I highly recommend.

Insider Tip: You absolutely MUST reserve days or even weeks ahead of time to reserve your spot.

Where to stay in Paris

There is no shortage of fabulous places to stay in Paris.

These hotels are all charming Parisian establishments in interesting neighborhoods.

Higher-end luxury

Hotel Abbaye des Vaus de Cernay A 4-star charmer with a garden near top museums.

Hotel Pilgrim Has a spa and great breakfast. In the heart of the Latin Quarter.

Hotel Cheval Blanc Has four restaurants, steps from The Louvre and Dior spa.

Cour des Vosges Is just off the oldest and one of the most beautiful squares in Paris. A true Parisien experience.

Lower-priced but still fabulous

Hotel Le Millie Rose Great location near train stations.

Hotel Moderniste Brand new, 4-star boutique hotel in a quiet neighborhood.

Hotel Saint-Marc Great location in the Ile de France region with a spa and hammam.

La Maison Favart Everything you could want in a Parisien hotel, spa, pool, great breakfast and top location.

How to get around Paris

Paris is very easy to get around. The most cost-effective way to get around is via the excellent Paris Metro system. If you are staying in Paris for 1, 2, 3,4, or 5 consecutive days, you can purchase a Metro pass.

We purchased a one-week pass for 30.75 Euros for 5 days. This allowed us to use the subway, tram, bus, airport trains, and even the Montmartre cable car for unlimited rides.

A single ride on the Paris Metro is 2.10 Euros. But if you’re traveling on the Metro several times a day to all the amazing Paris destinations, single fares can add up. A Metro pass for the length of time you’ll be in Paris might be a better option.

There are also monthly passes and passes that will take you to Versailles and other out-of-central Paris destinations. Determine your needs first then see what options are available to suit you.

For full details on saving money while traveling in Paris, see the Paris Travel Passes and Prices Guide.

How to stay connected in Paris

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Best times to visit Paris

There is no bad time to visit Paris, just better times. The best time to visit Paris is between October and April, although you’ll want to avoid the Christmas season.

Fall and spring are ideal because you can avoid the summer crowds, prices can be somewhat more reasonable and the weather is still great for sidewalk-cafe-people-watching, the quintessential Parisiene activity.

Avoid the summer if at all possible as the crowds are huge, wait times for attractions are long, prices are at their highest, it is very hot and many restaurants are closed for vacation.

Traveling around France: Eurail pass or individual train tickets?

Not that you could ever get bored in Paris, but if you wanted to go on a day trip from Paris or travel around the country, what’s the best and most cost-effective way to do it?

Should you get a Eurailpass or individual trains?

If you want to know which of these two options makes the most sense for you, do the following calculation. Add up the price of tickets from point A to point B, point B to point C, and so forth. Then see what is the price of a Eurail pass for the length of time you are going to stay in France.

Let’s say a Eurail pass for 5 days within a month is $380.00 but the cost of all individual train tickets during that time adds up to $350.00. It makes more sense to go with the individual tickets.

Of course, there is always the convenience of a Eurail pass that you can just flash at the train station and you’re in vs purchasing individual tickets either in person or online. But I think that’s a minor consideration.

There is also the flexibility of the Eurail pass to consider. If you change your mind and decide to stop at Bordeaux or Marseilles, You can’t beat the convenience of the Eurail pass.

An excellent resource for Eurail Pass information is The Man I seat 61: How to use a Eurail Pass. To research train travel in Europe, Omio.com is a good resource.

Want to know more about the fun things to do in Pais off the beaten track? Check out these guidebooks.

What are your thoughts on Paris off the beaten path? Did I miss something? What would you add? Let us know in the comments.

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